The seasons change quickly.

There are obvious markers of the change such as temperature and fashion.

Temperature is the first marker as it is the most obvious and tends to lead to the fashion change. One day it is 12 degrees Celsius with wind blowing straight through all my clothes, all three layers, straight to the other side, I’m not even an obstacle in its path, encouraging what leaves remain on the trees, to fall. Not so much encouraging actually, they are forcing them as though they are being punished for being so persistent as to cling for life to their branch for a whole season. Then they are gone. And I am an icicle. 

I feel the cold. Until all my parts are frozen. Then I feel nothing and wonder how I can walk when I can’t feel my feet and if that would actually cause my foot to snap off my leg. I can see my breath. My lips are blue, then white. I would not make a very attractive vampire.

All that said, I love winter since I can always put on more clothes but once I’m nude, that’s really it. Summer has other challenges. Especially since nudity in the office isn’t condoned.

Summer generally gives no warning. It is suddenly 30 degrees Celsius and 96% humidity. The change is so rapid and that’s why most of us think our Winters are cold and our Summers are so hot. It is the sudden change to an extreme rather than it being truly hot or truly cold. It’s also the humidity. There is no gentle lead in. No buds appearing on previously naked trees, no butterflies, bees, birth of wild animals etc. This all happens at the same time that Summer starts.

Summer is frizzy hair, make-up with the dewy look that is perspiration-related rather than the effect the make-up creates, it is damp shirts and dresses for work, it is sweat. No point in calling it perspiration, even as a female, given the amount of it. 

Perspiration is light.

This is sweat and it is everywhere. It is running down my back on the way to work. It is rivers streaming down my chest and back and cascading off my forehead into my eyes, forcing them to sting, it runs down my cheeks, chest, stomach and legs to pool in my shoes when I run. Summer is an outdoor sauna. 

Summer is why shopping is so popular. Airconditioning. Arguably the best invention to reach HK. Since it is so hot outside, it is set to freezing so all the sweat instantly evaporates upon entering any indoor space. It doesn’t instantly fix hair but I’m sure someone is working on air-conditioning that does that.

In Winter, the air-conditioning is set to a little bit above freezing but still on the chilly side. The reason for this – fashion, the other great season-marker.

No matter the time of year, there is an unusual mix of fashions here so I’m not going to go into that now. What I will say is that Summer is the time for short, skimpy things and guys sometimes stop wearing ties to work. Except if they are in Finance or are selling something or just look good in a tie. Dress standards for work tend to slip in comparison to Winter.

Winter is the season for puffer jackets, overcoats and trenchcoats. Yes, you read that correctly. As far as I’m aware, it is yet to snow in HK yet that does not stop people from being prepared for the first time this may happen. People wear beanies and gloves. These outfits are also quite fashionable and in my mind, a lot more stylish than what I tend to see in Summer.

It’s also the reason the air-conditioning is set to a little above freezing. It gives an opportunity to warrant wearing this stylish Winter attire. HK is nothing if not capitalist and there’s money to be made in having different seasons. Even if they are artificially maintained indoors.

Since Summer air-conditioning is still so cold, most women tend to keep a cardigan, pashmina or scarf in their office and would typically take one to a restaurant or the movies (where you can also ask for a blanket while you’re there if you haven’t brought enough things to keep you warm) too. 

Sweat like a tennis player at match point to reach the destination, cool down on arrival, towel the brow and pull out a jacket. It’s 36 degrees outside and I may not be able to feel my fingers while inside. 

Summer also teases. We think it is here and put away our Winter gear but there is a HK saying that says that Winter is not truly over until after Dragon Boat Festival. There is always one more cold snap. This has been true for all but one year that I have been here.

We should be thankful there are only two main seasons here since only really rich people could have enough cupboard space to store the appropriate clothing. It is tricky for those who believe the HK saying, keeping two seasons clothes out for a period. Most others put their off-season gear in storage either under their beds (many lift up revealing a secret hiding spot), in the back of the cupboards or even at their laundromat. 

Season changes are then also easily identified by one more thing. A rather distinctive smell. It’s unmistakeable and when many have decided it’s a season change at the same time, being in a confined space with these people can be quite overwhelming as it’s difficult to open a window while on a minibus, the MTR or even the office. It assaults the nose and no matter how much nicer smelling stuff could be in the near vicinity, this smell sucks it in and negates any good effect it may have had, albeit temporarily. It is not a pleasant aroma.

The combination of mustiness and mothballs.

* Thanks to Crowded House for the title to this post.